从这里开始
这是关于什么的:
梯形镜框搭配真夏/冷夏色调,适合剪裁利落、色彩清爽柔和的服装,例如钢蓝色、粉蓝色和玫瑰粉色。
本指南涵盖了您所选搭配的合身度和颜色,例如:
– shirts, trousers and jackets that fit without pulling
– trouser rise and break to check standing and seated
– True/Cool Summer colours for suits, shirts and accessories
每个季节三套穿搭建议
还有更多!
Use the suggestions as starting points and check each garment on you.
关键点:
01Trapezoid describes a gentle shoulder-to-hip taper; it is not an ideal or a ranking.
02合身度第一:肩缝位于肩部边缘,纽扣不会拉扯,坐下和活动时有空间。
03True/Cool Summer colours are cool and softly muted, such as steel blue, powder blue, soft plum and blue-grey.
04Slim, classic or relaxed cuts are style choices; compare them in a mirror rather than following fixed rules.
穿衣打扮要讲究合身,了解自己独特的体型和当季的色彩搭配,可以更快地做出选择。
如果您不确定自己的体型或适合的季节色彩,请参加我们的免费测试:
This guide is for men who see a 梯形体形 in the mirror and whose colouring suits the 真酷夏日色调.
It shows how to choose garments that fit your frame in the cool, muted colours of your palette, and how to build a 胶囊衣柜 从他们身上。
If you want the full set of colours, see our True/Cool Summer colour palette for men.
快速造型指南
水平滑动即可查看所有列 →
| 类别 | 最佳选择 | 请小心使用 |
|---|---|---|
| 轮廓 | – Garments that fit cleanly, slim or classic by preference – 适中的肩部结构 – Light shaping at the waist – Trousers whose waistband sits where you want it, standing and seated – 微妙的细节和纹理 |
– Clothing simply too big, unless a relaxed cut is your choice – Fits so tight they pull at the buttons 如果您喜欢自然的线条,可以选择厚肩垫。 – Waistbands that slip or dig in when you sit – Pattern scale you have not compared in a mirror |
| 颜色 | 钢蓝色 粉蓝色 玫瑰粉色 软梅 蓝灰色 |
– 明亮的橙色 – 金黄色 – 暖红色 – 土褐色 – 青柠绿 |
| 造型技巧 | – Fit first, then choose the cut you like – 使用冷色、柔和的颜色 – 注重精准剪裁 – 创造简洁优雅的线条 – 通过纹理增加兴趣 |
– Dramatic silhouettes, if you prefer a classic look – 暖色或亮色 – 过于随意或宽松的穿着 – 过度的图案混合 – 厚重的分层 |
梯形体型特征
随着 梯形体形你的肩膀和上半身看起来比臀部略宽,收腰线条比倒三角形更柔和,没有明显的 V 字形。
Your chest narrows gradually to the waist without a dramatic change, and your hips do not stand out against the shoulders.
The label describes your outline only; it says nothing about your fitness, your arm or leg length, or how standard sizes will fit you, and it is not an ideal that other shapes fall short of.
Whether off-the-peg garments fit with few alterations depends on your height, shoulder slope, posture, seat, thighs and each maker’s pattern, so check each garment on you, standing and seated.
Trapezoid is one of seven body shape descriptions The VOU uses: 三角形, 倒三角形, 矩形, 椭圆, trapezoid, 滴漏 和 钻石.
三角形、倒三角形、矩形、梯形和沙漏形遵循常见的样式用法;椭圆形和菱形则用 VOU 自己的语言描述。
No shape needs correcting; each guide simply starts from a different outline and from what the wearer wants to show.
真凉夏日色彩
您的真/冷夏色系以夏季色彩中最纯粹的冷色调为特色,其特点是柔和、淡雅的质感。
True/Cool Summer guides describe these colours as cool and softly muted; if your colouring fits that description, they are the shades to compare first near your face, in daylight.
将季节标签视为一种风格惯例,而不是一种衡量标准。
水平滑动即可查看所有列 →
| 颜色类别 | 特定颜色 | 最佳用途 |
|---|---|---|
| 主 | 钢蓝色 粉蓝色 软梅 清凉薄荷 |
Key garments and statement garments |
| 中立 | 蓝灰色 柔和的海军蓝 冷灰褐色 柔和的白色 |
基础服装和西装 |
| 强调色 | –薰衣草 玫瑰粉色 柔和的紫红色 长春花 |
配饰和小细节 |
True/Cool Summer guides describe the 衣着、鞋类和 配饰 colours in this palette as having these characteristics:
– 音质柔和,略显灰暗
– 中等强度,但不会显得太亮
– 冷色调,毫无暖意
——一种温柔、平静的外表
– Enough depth in the darker shades for business wear
这种柔和的冷色调是打造精致协调服装的起点。
When used in choosing garments for your trapezoid frame, these colours create sophisticated, elegant outfits with a cohesive appearance.
衣柜必备品
基础层
Your base layers form the foundation of every outfit and work best when they sit smoothly under shirts and knitwear.
Choose fitted undershirts in soft white or powder blue, ensuring they fit closely to your torso without excessive tightness or looseness.
A little stretch in the fabric helps an undershirt stay smooth and tucked; check the maker’s composition rather than aiming for a set percentage.
For thermal layers, select medium-weight merino wool in blue-grey or cool taupe, which provides warmth without bulk under your outer layers.
Choose necklines that stay hidden under the shirt you plan to wear on top.
衬衫和上衣
The fit and design of your dress shirts and polo衫 matter as much as their colour.
For dress shirts, a semi-spread collar is a versatile choice; pick a collar height that suits your neck and sits comfortably under a jacket.
Shoulder seams should sit at or close to your natural shoulder edge.
The chest should allow you to reach forward without the buttons pulling, and the body can taper slightly through the waist if you like a shaped line.
Opt for shirts with clean designs that showcase quality fabric rather than excessive detailing.
钢蓝色和柔和的白色是你的基础色,辅以粉蓝色和清凉的薄荷色来增加变化。
Focus on quality construction and a good fit rather than trendy details.
长裤
您的 裤子 can keep the clean lines of your outfits with a fit that suits you.
A straight leg or a gentle taper from hip to ankle both work; compare them in a mirror with the shoes you will wear rather than aiming for a set leg-opening width.
腰线标签(例如中腰或高腰)因制造商而异,因此请检查腰带在您站立和坐着时的实际位置,并选择您觉得舒适的位置。
For formal occasions, choose soft navy and blue-grey in quality wool; a minimal break, where the hem just rests on the shoe, is a common choice for a clean line.
For casual wear, cool taupe chinos and subtle textured options in steel blue provide versatility while staying within your palette.
夹克和外套
您的 外衣 should fit your shoulders and chest cleanly.
Moderate shoulder structure follows your natural line without exaggeration, and single-breasted jackets with notch lapels of medium width are a versatile starting point.
A common convention is a jacket length that covers the seat; compare shorter or longer cuts in a mirror if you are unsure.
How the sleeve head is finished is a style and construction choice for the maker.
Select soft navy for business occasions, steel blue for versatile jackets, and powder blue for casual outerwear.
Light suppression at the waist follows your taper, if you like a shaped line, as long as the fastened button does not pull.
鞋类
Your footwear should provide refinement and suit the formality of the outfit.
Choose shoes with clean lines.
For formal occasions, select soft navy or blue-grey Oxford shoes in polished leather with elegant proportions.
你的日常穿搭应该包括一件酷炫的灰褐色绒面革单品。 皮便鞋 and soft white leather trainers with clean designs that complement your understated approach.
配件
Your accessories can bring in your palette through thoughtful selection.
输送带
Formal belts in soft navy or cool taupe leather with refined buckles provide subtle detail without ostentation; the width depends on your trouser belt loops.
手表
Choose a watch in silver or white gold metals, paired with blue, grey, or white dials, with a case size that suits your wrist and slides under a shirt cuff.
The watch should provide sophistication through quality rather than excessive size or detailing.
领带
Neckwear presents an opportunity to introduce controlled colour; a common convention is a tie width roughly matching your lapel width.
Select steel blue, soft plum, and lavender in subtle patterns or refined solids.
口袋方块
Pocket squares in rose pink or periwinkle add sophisticated detail to your formal ensembles.
A simple, neat fold keeps the look clean.
你的理想穿搭:每个季节3种穿搭灵感
3 种春季穿搭创意
休闲装扮理念
For spring weekends, begin with cool taupe chinos in a tailored cut with a clean break at the ankle.
A powder blue cotton-piqué polo shirt with a semi-fitted silhouette maintains a clean line through your torso.
Complete with soft navy suede loafers and a matching woven leather belt.
A silver watch with a blue dial adds sophisticated detail in keeping with your summer palette.
商务着装理念
Your spring business attire centres on a soft navy suit with moderate shoulder structure and subtly tapered trousers.
The steel blue dress shirt beneath keeps to the cool palette, while a lavender silk tie adds controlled colour near your face.
海军蓝牛津皮鞋和同色系腰带营造出精致的基础,而玫瑰粉色口袋巾则增添了一丝恰到好处的对比。
银色手表搭配灰色表盘,使这套权威而又适合季节的服装更加完美。
正式服装理念
黑色仍然是传统的晚礼服颜色,在正式晚宴上永远是正确的选择。
True/Cool Summer guidance favours softer colours, so for spring formal occasions where the dress code and your own taste allow, a blue-grey dinner jacket with moderate shoulder structure and soft navy formal trousers is an alternative.
The soft white formal shirt creates a crisp foundation, while a steel blue silk bow tie keeps to the palette; a black silk bow tie is the black tie convention.
黑色漆皮牛津鞋符合正式晚宴的着装规范;海军蓝牛津鞋则适合着装要求较为宽松的场合。
银和珍珠母袖扣增添了光彩,与您的夏季色调相得益彰,但又不会显得过于压抑。
3 种夏季服装创意
休闲装扮理念
For summer weekends, try steel blue linen trousers with a tailored cut that maintains structure despite the relaxed fabric.
A soft white cotton T-shirt with a clean neckline provides seasonal comfort without sacrificing refinement.
Cool taupe suede loafers complete the outfit with understated elegance.
银色飞行员太阳镜和蓝灰色编织腰带为这款精致的夏季休闲装增添了精致的细节。
商务着装理念
Summer business calls for a blue-grey tropical wool suit with minimal structure and clean lines.
A powder blue cotton-poplin shirt provides crisp professionalism, paired with a soft plum silk tie for controlled colour.
海军蓝皮革休闲鞋和相配的腰带使整套服装显得更加正式。
银色网状手表和长春花口袋巾以低调精致的风格完美呈现您的夏季商务审美。
正式服装理念
黑色仍然是传统的晚礼服颜色,在正式晚宴上永远是正确的选择。
Where the dress code and your own taste allow, a dinner suit in soft navy, with moderate structure and precise tailoring, is a True/Cool Summer alternative for formal summer occasions.
The formal shirt in soft white adds crisp elegance, accompanied by a steel blue silk bow tie as a palette option; a black silk bow tie is the black tie convention.
Mother-of-pearl and silver studs contribute luminous detail.
黑色漆皮鞋符合正式晚宴的着装规范;海军蓝鞋则适合着装要求较为宽松的场合。
带有蓝色边缘的白色口袋巾增添了精致夏日优雅的气息。
3 种秋季穿搭创意
休闲装扮理念
Your autumn weekend attire features tailored jeans in a dark wash, with clean lines and seasonal versatility.
A cool mint Merino crew neck with a semi-fitted silhouette creates a clean line across your torso.
海军蓝绒面切尔西靴结构精巧,搭配相配的腰带。
配有海军蓝表盘的银色计时手表增添了技术复杂性,但又不会掩盖您低调的风格。
商务着装理念
For autumn business, choose a flannel suit in soft navy, its texture adding seasonal depth while maintaining clean lines.
The steel blue shirt beneath keeps to the palette, while a rose pink silk tie introduces controlled colour.
海军蓝牛津鞋和相配的皮带使整套服装显得正式而又得体。
一块带有蓝色表盘的银色手表和一块淡紫色的口袋方巾完善了这一权威的秋季外观。
正式服装理念
黑色仍然是传统的晚礼服颜色,在正式晚宴上永远是正确的选择。
For evening functions where the dress code allows, a velvet dinner jacket in steel blue with moderate structure is a palette alternative.
Its texture adds depth while keeping clean lines.
柔软的海军蓝正装长裤形成优雅的对比,而柔软的白色正装衬衫则提供了清爽的基础。
A navy silk bow tie is a palette option; a black silk bow tie and black patent leather Oxfords keep to the black-tie convention.
银色和珍珠母贝礼服套装为这套精致的晚装增添了完美效果。
3 种冬季服装创意
休闲装扮理念
Winter weekends begin with flannel trousers in cool taupe, their weight providing seasonal warmth without sacrificing structure.
Add a soft plum cashmere crew neck with a clean fit.
海军蓝皮革切尔西靴搭配相配的腰带,提供坚实的基础。
搭配灰色表盘的银色手表和蓝灰色羊毛围巾完善了这款精致的冬季休闲装扮。
商务着装理念
Winter business centres on a flannel suit in blue-grey, with structured shoulders and tapered trousers fitted to your proportions.
A soft white twill shirt provides crisp contrast, paired with a steel blue silk tie in a matching cool tone.
海军蓝牛津鞋和相配的腰带让整套服装显得更加正式和庄重。
带有蓝色表盘和玫瑰粉色口袋巾的银色手表增添了精确的细节和可控的色彩。
正式服装理念
黑色仍然是传统的晚礼服颜色,在正式晚宴上永远是正确的选择。
For winter formal occasions where the dress code allows, consider a velvet dinner jacket in soft navy with moderate structure, its rich texture enhancing your refined appearance.
Steel blue formal trousers keep to the palette, while the soft white formal shirt provides crisp foundation.
A navy silk bow tie is a palette option; a black silk bow tie and black patent leather Oxfords keep to the black-tie convention.
银色和珍珠母贝服装套装为这套精致的冬季晚装增添了完美气质。
常见错误及需要检查的选择
季节性色彩选择指南
真正的/清凉的夏季穿搭指南偏爱冷色调、柔和的色调。
一个值得考虑的选择是暖色调的海军蓝;调色板建议使用更柔和、更冷的海军蓝,例如柔和海军蓝。
Colour-analysis guides suggest warm undertones and very bright versions sit less comfortably with cool, soft colouring; compare a warm navy and a soft navy against your face in daylight.
A second choice to check is a very bright version of a palette colour; the palette favours muted, slightly greyed tones, and the same daylight comparison will show whether you agree.
Warm neutrals are a third choice to check.
你的配色方案建议使用冷色调的中性色,例如蓝灰色和冷灰褐色。
If you want to stay within the palette, cool taupe can stand in for warm brown, silver or blue-grey for golden neutrals, and soft white for warm cream.
体形错误
The most common fit problem on a trapezoid frame, as on any frame, is clothing that is the wrong size: too loose, with shoulder seams hanging past the shoulder, or too tight, with buttons pulling.
Garments that follow your natural lines without excess fabric or restriction show your outline clearly, if that is your aim.
Silhouette is a matter of taste: you can wear slim, classic, relaxed or deliberately oversized cuts, and changing between them is a style choice rather than a mistake, provided each garment fits as intended.
Casual clothing works as well as tailoring; a well-fitting jumper, polo or casual jacket can look as considered as a suit.
综合挑战
您的体形和季节颜色之间的相互作用会产生特定的挑战。
Fit comes first, and colour is the second check.
你的梯形框架允许 侧影 versatility, but your True Summer palette suggests cool, muted tones, so check each purchase for both fit and colour.
模式是可供比较的选项之一。
Your outline suits various pattern scales, and True/Cool Summer guides usually suggest subtle patterns in cool tones; a bolder pattern in palette colours is also worth trying in a mirror.
Patterns in blues, purples and greyed pastels keep to the palette; warm or bright motifs sit outside it.
Trend-driven accessories are another choice to check, because their colours may sit outside your palette.
Choose accessories that maintain your palette’s cool, muted characteristics, focusing on silver metals and cool-toned leathers rather than warm or bright finishes.
正装选择
Evening wear is worth attention for both structure and colour.
黑色仍然是传统的晚礼服颜色,在正式晚宴上永远是正确的选择。
真正的/酷炫的夏季着装指南偏爱柔和的颜色,因此,如果着装要求和你的个人喜好允许,柔和的海军蓝或钢蓝色晚礼服也是不错的选择。
If you choose a palette alternative, soft navy or steel blue keeps the formality of the cut while staying within your palette.
Heavy structure is a style choice; if you prefer a natural line, heavily padded shoulders can make the jacket look built up rather than your own.
In that case, select dinner jackets with moderate structure that follow your shoulders without exaggeration.
正式场合的配饰也值得同样的考虑。
真正的/清凉夏季指南通常建议佩戴银或白金而不是黄金;请将此视为一种比较,而不是一条规则。
Silver or white gold studs and cufflinks are the palette suggestion for formal evenings.
常見問題解答
Q. 我应该如何调整我的着装以适应需要传统深色西装的职业环境?
Where dark suits are expected, choose navy or grey, in a softer, cooler shade where you can, and focus on good tailoring and clean lines.
Bring True Summer colours in through shirts, ties and pocket squares, keeping them refined and proportional; steel blue shirts and soft plum ties are two options.
Q. 我应该要求裁缝做哪些修改?
Ask your tailor to check that the shoulders sit cleanly, that any waist suppression follows your taper without pulling at the button, and that the trouser hem gives the break you prefer.
Jacket length and sleeve-head finish are best settled with the tailor at a fitting, since what can be changed depends on the garment’s construction and spare cloth.
Q. 我该如何融入潮流趋势并保持自己的风格原则?
Evaluate trends through your combined requirements.
Adopt those that you like on you in a mirror and that align with your cool, muted palette.
Incorporate trending colours only when they match your seasonal swatches, and try trending cuts in a mirror to see whether you like them on you.
Q. 哪些配件对我的组合影响最大?
Focus on accessories that add refined detail through quality and precision.
Silver watches with blue or grey dials, subtly patterned ties in steel blue or soft plum, and pocket squares in rose pink or periwinkle create sophisticated focal points.
Select cool, muted colours for these accessories, and choose a size that suits you rather than one that dominates the outfit.
像真正的绅士一样风度
在我们说再见之前,无论你是否与形象顾问合作,合身的形象都能起到最大的作用。
专业造型始于合身,并选择适合场合的服装;了解自己的体型和当季色彩搭配可以加快选择速度。
我们的指南还涵盖了按场合、地点、季节和一天中的时间进行搭配的服装、鞋履、配饰和传统时尚品牌。
请先完成我们的三个免费测试,如果您需要个性化帮助,请预约咨询:
1. 找到你的体型
不同的服装适合不同的身材。
为了将您的体型与七种体型描述进行比较,请参加我们为男士提供的免费体型测试。
2. 找到你的季节色彩
你衣服上的服饰有很多颜色。
想知道哪种季节色彩组合更适合你?快来参加我们免费的男士季节色彩测试吧!
3. 找到你的时尚风格
想要探索你的个人时尚风格,请参加我们免费的男士时尚风格测试;它会推荐一些风格、穿搭灵感和品牌供你探索。
预约咨询 VOU
如需个人帮助,您可以预约我们的形象顾问和时尚造型师进行付费咨询。
我们的男士造型服务页面列出了付费咨询服务。
仅仅穿着奢侈品牌的衣服是不够的;衣服的合身度和场合的适宜性更为重要,而我们的个人风格指南涵盖了其余部分。
有关品牌的更多信息,请参阅我们关于以logo为主的奢侈品牌以及如何穿着它们的指南。
如需预约咨询,请联系我们。
曼迪·迈耶在《VOU》杂志专注于男士体型造型、服装合身度和整体比例。她的报道着重探讨服装选择背后的实际问题:例如,外套如何贴合肩部线条,裤子如何垂坠,以及不同的剪裁如何改变穿着者想要打造的身形轮廓。
她的研究领域包括体型造型中常用的三角形、倒三角形、矩形、椭圆形、梯形、沙漏形和菱形等体型标签。这些标签为比较视觉比例提供了初步参考;它们并不能涵盖所有体型,也不能规定唯一的正确穿衣方式。她的研究重点在于将这些观察结果与服装的形状、结构、长度以及服装上下部分之间的关系联系起来。
Mandy 的编辑内容结合了视觉对比和合身度测试,考察服装的舒适度和活动性。读者可以思考剪裁是否提供了所需的空间,衣服在哪些地方会紧绷或堆积,以及哪些改动可以更好地契合他们理想的造型。其目标是在充分考虑个人喜好和穿着者自身风格目标的前提下,让男装选择更加易于理解。